Taiko Restaurant

Under the soaring glass roof of this this luxurious but laid-back Amsterdam landmark, uncover Schilo van Coevorden’s hipsters’ bar and slick East Asian restaurant, as well as his inner-courtyard brasserie, sectioned off from the open lounge by a line of trees that soar up through the floor from the underground spa. Trees indoors, suspended staircases that go nowhere – Conservatorium embodies inside-out, back-to-front design with a smile on its face. The food is just as innovative – and as delightful.

We fully expect chef Schilo van Coevorden to dish up a harmony of this and a rhapsody of that, but what’s delivered is a symphony – nay, a veritable jazz syncopation – of flavours, crescendoing through several seafood-themed tasting courses up to the Wagyu beef

Gourmet credentials – Until September 2014, Conservatorium promised serious destination dining in the form of Tunes restaurant in its old music hall. Conservatorium’s ever more-imaginative Dutch chef Schilo van Coevorden isn’t one to rest on his laurels, however – his bold new East Asian flagship Taiko marches to the beat of a very different drum (literally – it’s named after Japanese percussion). Taiko is a shiny, sultry black bento box of a restaurant that sets the stage for showstopping East Asian dishes. Bringing the lessons of his culinary adventures in the Far East to bear on an array of local, seasonally sourced produce, Schilo’s sushi and sashimi are the stars, alongside deliciously delicate dim sum and refined heavyweights such as Kobe-style wagyu beef and Szechuan-peppered lobster.


Top tipple – When you’re dining on ocean-fresh sushi, there are really only two drinks that make perfect partners: champagne and sake. Taiko excels at both, with a taste-matched champagne selection and sake sourced from Japanese microbreweries.


Highlights

– Balanced East Asian dishes, with knockout sushi and sashimi

– Squint-and-you’re-in-Tokyo design

– Superb sake selection


Rates from £300 a night


To book this hotel visit mrandmrssmith.com

Recipes from this chef